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1 with it
inf в струе (модный, современный); не отставать от жизни; идти в ногу со временемShe may be a grandmother, but she's quite with it in the way she dresses.
Jenny's very with it — she'll know what people are wearing this summer.
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2 Crompton, Samuel
SUBJECT AREA: Textiles[br]b. 3 December 1753 Firwood, near Bolton, Lancashire, Englandd. 26 June 1827 Bolton, Lancashire, England[br]English inventor of the spinning mule.[br]Samuel Crompton was the son of a tenant farmer, George, who became the caretaker of the old house Hall-i-th-Wood, near Bolton, where he died in 1759. As a boy, Samuel helped his widowed mother in various tasks at home, including weaving. He liked music and made his own violin, with which he later was to earn some money to pay for tools for building his spinning mule. He was set to work at spinning and so in 1769 became familiar with the spinning jenny designed by James Hargreaves; he soon noticed the poor quality of the yarn produced and its tendency to break. Crompton became so exasperated with the jenny that in 1772 he decided to improve it. After seven years' work, in 1779 he produced his famous spinning "mule". He built the first one entirely by himself, principally from wood. He adapted rollers similar to those already patented by Arkwright for drawing out the cotton rovings, but it seems that he did not know of Arkwright's invention. The rollers were placed at the back of the mule and paid out the fibres to the spindles, which were mounted on a moving carriage that was drawn away from the rollers as the yarn was paid out. The spindles were rotated to put in twist. At the end of the draw, or shortly before, the rollers were stopped but the spindles continued to rotate. This not only twisted the yarn further, but slightly stretched it and so helped to even out any irregularities; it was this feature that gave the mule yarn extra quality. Then, after the spindles had been turned backwards to unwind the yarn from their tips, they were rotated in the spinning direction again and the yarn was wound on as the carriage was pushed up to the rollers.The mule was a very versatile machine, making it possible to spin almost every type of yarn. In fact, Samuel Crompton was soon producing yarn of a much finer quality than had ever been spun in Bolton, and people attempted to break into Hall-i-th-Wood to see how he produced it. Crompton did not patent his invention, perhaps because it consisted basically of the essential features of the earlier machines of Hargreaves and Arkwright, or perhaps through lack of funds. Under promise of a generous subscription, he disclosed his invention to the spinning industry, but was shabbily treated because most of the promised money was never paid. Crompton's first mule had forty-eight spindles, but it did not long remain in its original form for many people started to make improvements to it. The mule soon became more popular than Arkwright's waterframe because it could spin such fine yarn, which enabled weavers to produce the best muslin cloth, rivalling that woven in India and leading to an enormous expansion in the British cotton-textile industry. Crompton eventually saved enough capital to set up as a manufacturer himself and around 1784 he experimented with an improved carding engine, although he was not successful. In 1800, local manufacturers raised a sum of £500 for him, and eventually in 1812 he received a government grant of £5,000, but this was trifling in relation to the immense financial benefits his invention had conferred on the industry, to say nothing of his expenses. When Crompton was seeking evidence in 1811 to support his claim for financial assistance, he found that there were 4,209,570 mule spindles compared with 155,880 jenny and 310,516 waterframe spindles. He later set up as a bleacher and again as a cotton manufacturer, but only the gift of a small annuity by his friends saved him from dying in total poverty.[br]Further ReadingH.C.Cameron, 1951, Samuel Crompton, Inventor of the Spinning Mule, London (a rather discursive biography).Dobson \& Barlow Ltd, 1927, Samuel Crompton, the Inventor of the Spinning Mule, Bolton.G.J.French, 1859, The Life and Times of Samuel Crompton, Inventor of the Spinning Machine Called the Mule, London.The invention of the mule is fully described in H. Gatling, 1970, The Spinning Mule, Newton Abbot; W.English, 1969, The Textile Industry, London; R.L.Hills, 1970, Power in the Industrial Revolution, Manchester.C.Singer (ed.), 1958, A History of Technology, Vol. IV, Oxford: Clarendon Press (provides a brief account).RLH -
3 start
[stɑ:t, Am stɑ:rt] nthe race got off to an exciting \start das Rennen fing spannend an;promising \start viel versprechender Anfang;to give sb a \start jdm Starthilfe geben ( fig)Uncle Bill has agreed to give Jenny a \start in his business Onkel Bill ist einverstanden, Jenny bei ihrem Start ins Berufsleben zu helfen, indem er sie in seinem Unternehmen anfangen lässt;to make an early/late \start früh/spät beginnen;to make a fresh \start einen neuen Anfang machen, noch einmal beginnen;at the [very] \start of sth [ganz] am Anfang einer S. gen;at the \start of the opera zu Beginn der Oper;at the \start of the week [am] Anfang der Woche;from the \start von Anfang an;from \start to finish von Anfang bis Ende;for a \start zunächst [einmal];we'll take names and phone numbers for a \start wir notieren zunächst einmal Namen und Telefonnummernearly/late \start früher/später Start;false \start Fehlstart mto have a good \start in life einen guten Start ins Leben haben;to have a \start [on sb] [jdm gegenüber] einen Vorsprung haben;to get the \start of sb ( Brit) jdn überrunden;to give sb a \start jdm einen Vorsprung gebenhe woke with a \start er schreckte aus dem Schlaf hoch;to give a \start zusammenzucken;to give sb a \start jdn erschrecken;you gave me such a \start! du hast mich so erschreckt!PHRASES:to do sth by fits and \starts etw stoßweise tun;it's a rum \start, John's wife turning up alone in Manchester like that es ist schon komisch, dass Johns Frau so allein in Manchester auftaucht;it's a queer \start when the boss suddenly comes all over friendly irgendetwas stimmt nicht, wenn der Chef auf einmal so freundlich ist vi1) ( begin) anfangen;there are performances all day on the hour \starting at 10 o'clock ab 10 Uhr gibt es stündlich den ganzen Tag Aufführungen;we only knew two people in London to \start with anfangs kannten wir nur zwei Leute in London;don't \start! hör auf [damit]! ( fam)don't \start - I've already told you why it's not possible fang nicht schon wieder [damit] an - ich habe dir schon gesagt, warum es nicht geht;don't you \start! jetzt fang du nicht auch noch an! ( fam)to \start at the beginning ( said to begin a narration) vorn anfangen;well, to \start at the beginning,... nun, zunächst einmal muss man sagen, dass...;to \start afresh [or [all over] again] von neuem beginnen;to \start to do sth anfangen[,] etw zu tun;to \start by doing sth mit etw dat beginnen;you could \start by weeding the flowerbeds du könntest mit dem Unkrautjäten in den Blumenbeeten beginnen;to get \started [on sth] [mit etw dat] beginnen;let's get \started on this load of work lasst uns mit der vielen Arbeit anfangen;let's \start lass uns anfangen, packen wir's an ( fam)to \start on sth mit etw dat beginnen;to \start with,... ( fam) zunächst einmal...2) (fam: begin harassing, attacking)3) ( begin a journey) losfahren;we'll need to \start early wir müssen früh los[fahren];to \start after sb/ sth jdm/etw folgen5) ( begin happening) beginnen;the relaxation class is \starting [up] next month die Entspannungsgymnastik findet nächsten Monat zum ersten Mal statt6) ( jump in surprise) zusammenfahren, hochfahren;he \started at the sound of the phone er fuhr beim Klingeln des Telefons hoch;to \start out of sleep aus dem Schlaf hochfahren [o hochschrecken] vt1) ( begin)to \start [doing] sth anfangen[,] etw zu tun;when do you \start your new job? wann fängst du mit deiner neuen Stelle an?;he \started his career as an accountant er begann seine Karriere als Buchhalter;he \started work at 16 mit 16 begann er zu arbeiten;we \start work at 6.30 every morning wir fangen jeden Morgen um 6.30 Uhr mit der Arbeit an;to \start a family eine Familie gründen2) ( set in motion)to \start sth etw ins Leben rufen;the new magazine will \start publication in November das neue Magazin wird im November zum ersten Mal erscheinen;to \start a fire Feuer machen;to \start litigation einen Prozess anstrengen, vor Gericht gehen;to \start legal proceedings gerichtliche Schritte unternehmen [o einleiten];to \start a meeting eine Sitzung eröffnen;to \start trouble Ärger machen;3) mechto \start sth etw einschalten;to \start a car ein Auto starten;to \start a machine eine Maschine anstellen;to \start a motor einen Motor anlassen4) econto \start a business ein Unternehmen gründen;to \start sb in sth jdm bei etw dat Starthilfe geben;Paul \started him in the dairy business Paul verschaffte ihm einen Start in der Molkereito \start sb doing sth jdn dazu veranlassen, etw zu tun -
4 Goulding, John
SUBJECT AREA: Textiles[br]b. 1791 Massachusetts, USA d. 1877[br]American inventor of an early form of condenser carding machine.[br]The condenser method of spinning was developed chiefly by manufacturers and machine makers in eastern Massachusetts between 1824 and 1826. John Goulding, a machinist from Dedham in Massachusetts, combined the ring doffer, patented by Ezekiel Hale in 1825, and the revolving twist tube, patented by George Danforth in 1824; with the addition of twisting keys in the tubes, the carded woollen sliver could be divided and then completely and continuously twisted. He divided the carded web longitudinally with the ring doffer and twisted these strips to consolidate them into slubbings. The dividing was carried out by covering the periphery of the doffer cylinder with separate rings of card clothing and spacing these rings apart by rings of leather, so that instead of width-way detached strips leaving the card, the strips were continuous and did not require piecing. The strips were passed through rotating tubes and wound on bobbins, and although the twist was false it sufficed to compress the fibres together ready for spinning. Goulding patented his invention in both Britain and the USA in 1826, but while his condensers were very successful and within twenty years had been adopted by a high proportion of woollen mills in America, they were not adopted in Britain until much later. Goulding also worked on other improvements to woollen machinery: he developed friction drums, on which the spools of roving from the condenser cards were placed to help transform the woollen jenny into the woollen mule or jack.[br]Bibliography1826, British patent no. 5,355 (condenser carding machine).Further ReadingD.J.Jeremy, 1981, Transatlantic Industrial Revolution. The Diffusion of Textile Technologies Between Britain and America, 1790–1830s, Oxford (provides a good explanation of the development of the condenser card).W.English, 1969, The Textile Industry, London (a brief account).C.Singer (ed.), 1958, A History of Technology, Vol. IV, Oxford: Clarendon Press (a brief account).RLH
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